Hola from Guatemala!
On our way to the Mexican migracion office a man on a motorcycle pulled up to our window offering his help. Ben told him "NO GRACIAS" politely at first however, after the sixth time started getting frustrated. It's hard enough trying to drive our big Homey through the chaotic streets, let alone with a guy on a motorcyle accosting you. The motorcyclist pulled ahead and continued to lead us to the border, even though there were obvious signs directing us. When we arrived at the migracion office, the man was waiting for us with a smile. He pulled out two forms of identification, and we understood "oh!! he works here, he was on his way to work and simply wanted to help a couple gringos." He began leading us through the hoops. First, we cancelled our Mexican tourist permits, then on our way to the Guatemalan border. We went through formalities for about an hour, and began to suspect our happy helper was going to rip us off. Ben kept an eye on him the entire time, and caught him 3 times trying to over charge us!!! With ourselves, the dog, and the vehicle permitted the man then demanded $150 US dollars. NO WAY JOSE!!! With our pathetic Spanish we told him he was a robber and we would only pay 100 Quetzales which is about $13 US. Long story short, after much negotiation we agreed upon 125 Quetzales, really a fair price for his work, because we would have had no idea what to do or where to go!!
We made our way through the maze of streets and came out to highway headed for Xela (Quetzaltenango) The scenery immediately changed from that of Mexico and became very lush and mountainous. We were automatically attracted to the area. You wouldnt believe the fields where these people grow their crops. Straight up the sides of the mountains, where no tractor could ever go! We meandered through small villages surrounded by steep corn fields. It is like no place we've ever seen. We climbed and climbed and climbed (it is extremely steep and bumpy) into the mountains of Guatemala pushing on to the famous market in Chichicastenango, which began early the next morning. After missing a turn and continuing in the wrong direction for what seemed like forever on a terrible road undergoing construction, we realized our mistake, and turned back.
We made it to Chichi just before dark. We pulled into the only place that could accomodate us that night, a nasty gas station parking lot, that also doubled as the public bathroom :(
However, it was affordable and we were only staying one night. We spent the next day wondering through the crowds of people and the numerous market vendors and their interesting crafts.
So much color and creativity, however things did begin to look the same. After a long day at the market it was getting late so we decided to stay over one more night and leave early in the morning for lake Atitlan.
While Emily was boiling water for tea and Ben was about to warm up the rig, we let Sadie out to do her business, just like every morning. Not more than thirty seconds had gone by before Emily stepped out to call Sadie inside, but she was no where to be found. We immediately ran up and down the surrounding streets calling and whistling however there was no sign of Sadie. We gathered from the parking lot attendant that another dog had approached Sadie and bit at her, spooked Sadie took off running.
Long story short, we spent the next 3 days searching the streets on foot and on bike, posting flyers and even advertising on the local radio station.
All the while parked in the nasty parking lot :( We felt like we had exhausted all of our options and had searched everywhere possible, by the end of the 3rd day neither of us felt comfortable remaining in the town. It was very difficult to leave (we felt like we should give our dog more time) however we felt as though we needed to move on. The first week was really rough on us, and we miss Sadie terribly (she had become another member of our family) but we are doing much better now.
We are currently at Panajachel near Lake Atitlan.
We decided to enroll in a two week Spanish course that is 4 hours a day of one on one instruction. We found a nice place to park for a couple weeks with the local market, our school, and the lake nearby, we have plenty to keep us busy.
It's a blast cruising our bikes down the cobblestone streets, here theres more bikes and people filling the streets than cars.
Each day after Spanish class we ride to the market for our fresh produce, bread, and local cheese, meander through the crafts spilling into the streets, and stroll along the lake front. One day while on a school field trip to the local ceramic factory, Emily was pulled inside of a little shop and dressed in traditional garb!
The clothing is very different than what we're used to. We have been eating the most delicious fresh fruit salads however we are rather surprised at the cost! Its not as economical as we had expected, it seems like tropical fruit here is almost as much as it is at home. But it is more tasty and fresh. Its hard to understand how these people make a living when gas and food are just as expensive and wages are a fraction of what we make in the states.
We spent the last weekend backpacking around several villages on the lake. We figured it would be a good way to celebrate Ben's birthday which wasnt so fun in Chichi.
We hopped on a small boat packed with people and rode 15 minutes to the next village. From there we hiked along a tiny goat trail following the cliffs edge overlooking the beautiful scenery of the lake.
The terrain was rather gnarly and being our first hike we were pretty beat. We found a nice secluded camping spot on the point of a cliff with an amazing view.
After setting up camp we spent our evening touring the eclectic village of San Marcos. We popped into a brick oven pizza shop for dinner, we thought this would be a good time to celebrate and enjoy our first meal out at an official restaurant with walls. The next morning we woke to an amazing choir of tropical birds, much different from the songs at home. The lake and the surrounding volcanoes were clear as a bell and so peaceful.
We hiked into town and enjoyed a birthday breakfast in a beautiful garden.
It was absolutely delicious, and made us somewhat homesick. We miss the Pancake House! :)
After lounging beside the water we packed up camp and took another lancha (boat) back to Homey.
Upon completion of our schooling, we plan on visiting the Tikal ruins in northern Guatemala, then on to Belize. We hear there are amazing coral reefs as well as expansive white beaches. We are missing the ocean! We're looking forward to getting into the Carribbean groove. We'll let you know how it is!
Ben and Em
Swingin near the water, Rio Dulce.
Homey parked among the trees and tree houses of Finca Ixobel. A working farm with lots to offer - tree houses, bungalows to sling a hammock, swimming lagoon, organic garden, hiking trails, and much more.
Ben relaxing near the lagoon, Finca Ixobel.
A HUGE tree at the entrance of Tikal.
View from Temple 4 at Tikal Ruins.
Absolutely breathtaking!
Climbing Mundo Perdido (lost world) at dusk. We stayed and explored the park until dark. As we were resting atop this tower, the howler monkeys really began their calls. They imitate the sound of a jaguar to protect their territory. Pretty convincing call too!
The following morning exploring the ruins. We are standing in front of two of many stelas.
Temple 5
View from Temple 5.
Quite the climb to the top of Temple 5. These stairs were more like a ladder!
One of the many paths through the jungle.
The Gran Plaza.
Temple 1
Enjoying the peaceful sounds of birds and other wild life after a long day of exploring. We spotted our first tucans and parrots here!
